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Nova Scotia on Two Wheels

One of the perks of two adult motorcyclists in the family is the option of vacationing with a child on the back of the each of the bikes. How nice!

We targeted Nova Scotia and the Cabot Trail in particular. My husband, Wayne, and I spent countless hours in our Kitchener, Ontario home scouring over maps of the Canadian East Coast. Wayne, during his youth, had motorbiked from coast to coast. The riding in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton impressed him. On the down side, the kids were lukewarm about sitting on the back but I knew they would enjoy themselves as long as we planned many excursions en route.

Now, I said I could ride. However, I will never be comfortable riding on the 401, the highway that joins southern Ontario at Windsor to Montreal, Quebec.

As a result, Wayne purchased a cargo trailer to transport the bikes over the congested major stretches to the East Coast. When he brought it home it reminded me of a large red bread bag. All we need to do is add a bunch of coloured spots and we would have the Wonder (Bread) Wagon.

I decorated the wagon, I mean, customized (you'd think I would know this terminology by now) adding a countertop that hinged out of the way when traveling, plus many hooks to hang pots and other cooking equipment. I painted the interior white and from an old tent concocted a screen door. This prevented a claustrophobic atmosphere. Most importantly, I hung Christmas lights around the interior ceiling along with a string of red chili pepper lights and this decorative addition emerged as the piece de resistance. Wow, it really was a wonder wagon, as you can see in the photo.

On a fine August morning, we headed out early to miss as much Toronto traffic as possible. We chose August because we'd heard the Eastern provinces see summer a few weeks later than do we in Ontario. The trip was uneventful except for a missed road in Montreal, which routed us through the centre of the city. So much for the French Immersion children in the back seat, they were no help whatsoever, insisting that they hadn't learned "normal" stuff like signs.

We spent the first night at a motel in New Brunswick and the next morning we headed to the Cabot Trail, on Cape Breton Island.

Our destination was Baddeck, the home of Alexander Graham Bell, where we camped at the local KOA. These campgrounds offer the amenities I require… flush toilets and showers.

The next morning we set off to do the Cabot Trail, counterclockwise. Travel sources recommend following this direction for the spectacular scenery. The Cabot Trail, named after explorer John Cabot, winds its way around the north shore of Cape Breton. Visitors often spot whales in the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Spencer, my son, was on the back with me. Larissa, our daughter, rode with her dad. She is a wiggle worm so best to be with the more experienced driver. I gave Spencer all the instructions regarding sitting still and letting me know if he was about to move dramatically.

"Oh, My, God," I thought as I saw our first switchback up ahead in the distance. I stopped. How was I ever going to navigate that turn? A switchback is a turn that is literally 360 degrees. I didn't have one of those in the parking lot at Conestoga College for my driving exam two months earlier. I warned Spencer this could be our first and last turn. Fortunately, I managed to do the maneuver as usual in first gear and immediately increased my speed to start the climb. The road winds up back and forth hugging the coastline with sheer drops down to the water. I was petrified! But the feeling worsened with the addition of large vehicles. Why are there so many transport trucks on this road? Are they out of their minds?

The scenery, when I dared sneak peeks, was incredible. The coastline is rugged and the water crystal clear. Along the way, we made many tourist type stops to take pictures and to give me a moment to catch my breath. I was a nervous wreck the first hour and then it started to rain!

Another stop to pull on the rain gear and off we went. Spencer is the best passenger I have ever had…the only and the best.

The weather on the trail is very changeable and we moved in and out of sun, fog, and rain. Wayne reassured me with, "Come on, you can do it. It's easy!"

The kids wanted to stop for lunch at busy Neils Harbour, famous for its clam chowder. At Cape Breton Highland National Park we picked up brochures for future reading and located a whale museum near Pleasant Bay. The kids enjoyed the museum and the break.

I took a minute to dip my hand in the water and tell the kids we had done this same thing on the beach at Tofino, on the west coast of Vancouver Island. We had seen Canada, coast to coast!

At this point, we had been on the bikes for nearly six hours and still faced another three or more.

Traveling on through Cheticamp, we stopped for gas and realized this community is pure Acadian --- everyone speaks French and once again my children were of little help. Darn that French immersion!

As we turned back east toward the campground at Baddeck, I realized I had conquered the Cabot Trail. I felt pretty proud, as did the kids and Wayne. How many people could say they rode the Cabot Trail, transporting a son on the back, within two months of getting a motorcycle licence?

Great Day! Check out Nova Scotia at www.novascotia.com for details on a terrific place to vacation, on any number of wheels.